How to Clean a Washing Machine Filter (NZ Homes): Step-by-Step
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- How to Clean a Washing Machine Filter (NZ Homes): Step-by-Step
A clogged washing machine filter is one of the most common causes of musty smells and slow draining. Here's exactly where to find yours and how to clean it safely.
Turn the machine off and unplug it, then place towels underneath. Open the filter door — usually a small flap at the bottom-front on front-loaders, or under a panel on top-loaders — and turn the cap slowly anticlockwise to let trapped water drain out. Lift the filter free, rinse it under warm water, clear out lint and debris, then refit and test.
Most washing machine filters follow the same basic process, whether you've got a front-loader or top-loader. Here's the full sequence:
Most households should clean their washing machine filter every 4-8 weeks. Homes doing frequent loads, washing pet bedding, or noticing a musty smell should check it monthly; light-use households can usually stretch to every two to three months.
A blocked washing machine filter usually shows up as a musty smell from the drum, water draining slowly or not fully, a noisy or unbalanced spin cycle, an error code on the display, or a damp patch on the floor near the machine after a wash.
The most common mistakes are opening the filter without draining it first, forcing a stuck cap instead of easing it gently, overtightening the plastic housing on reinstall, and skipping regular cleaning until smells or drainage problems appear.
A few habits make the job easier and protect the machine long-term. Always let residual water drain before pulling the filter fully out. If the cap won't turn, apply a concentrated enzyme cleaner around the seal and leave it 10-15 minutes so the enzymes break down built-up grime and residue before trying again — never force it with pliers. When reinstalling, hand-tighten only; plastic caps crack under too much force. And build filter checks into your regular routine rather than waiting for a smell to remind you.
On most front-loaders it's a round cap behind a small flap at the bottom-front of the machine. On top-loaders it's usually inside or near the agitator, or behind a small access panel near the top. Check your manual if you can't find it — the exact spot varies by brand and model.
Yes, but a blocked filter gradually causes slower draining, musty smells and extra strain on the pump. It won't stop the machine working overnight, but leaving it too long increases the risk of drainage faults and pump damage.
This is normal — there's always some residual water sitting behind the filter, even after a finished cycle. Place a towel or shallow tray underneath before opening it, and drain any dedicated hose first if your machine has one.
Don't force it with pliers or tools, as plastic caps crack easily. Spray a concentrated enzyme cleaner around the seal and leave it 10-15 minutes so the enzymes loosen built-up grime, then try turning it again with steady, gentle pressure.
Most do, though it's sometimes called a lint filter or trap rather than a pump filter, and it's often built into or near the agitator. Some older top-loaders don't have one at all — check your manual to confirm.
A washing machine filter takes five minutes to clean and prevents most of the smells, drainage problems and pump strain that build up over time. Check it every 4-8 weeks and it'll rarely give you trouble.
Stephanie founded Clean for Good to bring a healthier, more thoughtful approach to home cleaning on Auckland's North Shore, using low-tox, effective methods and a team that treats every home like their own.
@cleanforgoodnz
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